Cardiff, Wales

Cardiff, Wales is a city in transition. Their past reputation as one of the great coal ports has gradually diminished, opening the way for a new, progressive focus. Words such as rebirth, rebound and rejuvenate are on everyone’s lips. Although I never saw Cardiff in the old days, it certainly looks fine now.

The Wales Millennium Center

Our media trip was organized around the grand opening of the Wales Millennium Center, a state-of-the-art venue for opera, ballet, musical theater and more. One hundred journalists give or take a few, from seven countries convened over a long weekend to attend the event.

As I learned even before leaving home, singing is especially important to the Welsh. To celebrate the completion of the new building, each town and village sent a contingent of eager singers.

Sitting outside in a persistent rain, we all joined in an evening of karaoke, 2000-people strong. Words, some in Welsh and some in English floated across an extra large video screen. We sang and the rain dripped, yet spirits were not dampened in the least.

Of course, Singing in the Rain, was one of the selections, as were oldies-but-goodies from Welshman Tom Jones. Mr. Jones is still highly regarded in Wales, although Catherine Zeta-Jones might someday catch up.

Cardiff Castle

You could say the story of Cardiff Castle has been many centuries in the making. Its strategic position near the mouth of the River Taff made it an ideal location for a Roman fort and trading post in the first century AD.

Time marched on and the site remained significant no matter who was in charge. The buildings were altered frequently through the years. Successive Norman Lords added fortifications including the Black Tower, continuing to change the face of Cardiff castle. A residence was begun about 1420 and became the primary domestic quarters. Today, the castle sits in the heart of the city.

Major changes took place when Lord and Lady Butte came along much nearer our present day. Butte was responsible for the extraordinary Victorian transformation of the castle, financed by the wealth his late father.

My experience with Cardiff Castle was an evening castle banquet, understandably popular with visitors. Prior to the feasting and music, we had a brief tour of three opulent rooms. Go during the day for a more thorough look.

A Lesson in Rugby

I attended my first Rugby game while in Cardiff at their new Millennium Stadium, not to be confused with the Millennium Center. We were able to walk from our hotel, Holland House, to the stadium. The crowds often reach 50,000 strong, so parking and driving could be a challenge.

Fortunately, two Irish journalists (and avid sports fans) were seated directly in front of me. They generously attempted to explain the finer points of this sport as we went along. I was told the Welsh fans often sing during the games, but they didn’t on this occasion.

The biggest difference I noticed between American football and rugby was the lack of time-outs – the game never seemed to stop. These guys don’t bother with any padding either. They did some strange huddling maneuvers and then the ball suddenly reappeared, popping with force into the air, like a cork from a bottle. Whoever caught it would dash at top speed to the goal.

Wales was competing with Japan and it was a rout. The Japanese didn’t score a single goal. Mid-way through, I started feeling sorry for them and hoping they would at least get one “pity” goal. The final score was 99 to nothing!

Cardiff Bay and other attractions

Cardiffians are particularly proud of the bay area and its recent revitalization. From a wasteland of old buildings and abandoned docks, the bay is lively again, with upscale shops and restaurants. Officials are working to capitalize on the bay and its potential for cruise ships and other water-related activities.

Allow time for the National Museum of Wales, popular with visitors and residents. They have a diverse collection, including many Impressionist paintings.

The Welsh come from their out-lying villages to browse the boutiques along Queen Street, the pedestrian friendly heart of the shopping district. The large number of Victorian and Edwardian shopping arcades makes the experience in Cardiff unique.

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