Explore the Historic Cardo of Jerusalem

One of the most striking tourist and shopping destinations in Jerusalem, the Cardo in the Old City, is rich in history and in artistic treasures. The various levels show different eras of the city’s history, with artifacts from the First Temple, Roman treasures, columns which surrounded the Byzantine bazaars, porticoes built by Crusaders, and modern day plazas. Today, the area is a perfect place to sit and relax over coffee or ice cream, or to explore the many narrow streets which lead to unusual sites.

The Cardo is a place to live, work and learn as well as visit. In addition to the constant flow of tourists, one can catch a glimpse of mothers with strollers, students of all ages hurrying to classes in the Cardo’s many educational institutions, and merchants selling their wares in exquisite boutiques. The buildings contain many small apartments, and there are many families in this area, although most residents commute to other areas of Jerusalem, particularly the new city, for work. The apartments in the Old City are among the most beautiful and expensive in Jerusalem, and with the magnificent views the area provides, there is little doubt that buying an apartment here is worth the investment.

The Romans built the Cardo, or Cardo Maximus, in the first century after Titus conquered Jerusalem. Cardo means “axis”, and the area was designed according to a typical Roman city plan. The remains of many shops and buildings are hewn into bedrock and there is much more of the Cardo to be excavated. He initial excavations were done in 1970 by Nachman Avigod’s team after the Cardo had been neglected for many centuries.

The majority of architectural remains are from the 6th century when the Cardo was a bustling shopping center in the Byzantine period. The majority of the remains from the Roman era is in the area close to Damascus Gate. The central portion of the Cardo is 12 meters wide with borders of columns on each side. The width of this entire section is 22 meters, which is about the same width as a four lane highway. As you walk past the stately columns, imagine a Byzantine marketplace where sellers are haggling with buyers over spices, meticulously designed vases, carpets and other wares. The area was also filled with religious pilgrims who traveled for many months by foot, ship or camel to pray at the various holy sites in the city. This section is six meters below the street level, which shows how much earth has accumulated in 15 centuries.

As you walk down the steps toward the lighted marble passageways, you will see modern shops selling artwork, bright scarves, jewelry and Judaic items such as mezzuza cases, candlesticks and special cups for wine. This is one of the most popular shopping areas in the city, and you can find some genuine treasures here, but it is not the place to find a bargain. This colonnade was built by the Crusaders in a failed attempt to revive the Cardo after it fell in to disuse under Muslim rule. However, the section remains as one of the most beautiful and frequently visited parts of the Cardo. As you walk down the colonnade, past the lighted section, you approach the narrow streets of the Muslim quarter where vendors sell almost any item imaginable.

On the street level, you can complete your visit to the Old City by visiting the Western Wall or return to Damascus Gate to return to the New City.

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